About Search The Dry Down Perfumers Lexicon

ACCORDIST.

The Lexicon

A reference glossary of fragrance language — the accords, notes, ingredients, and techniques that define the art of scent.

A B C D E F G H I JKL M N O PQR S TUV WXYZ

A

Accord (Technique)techniqueIn the craft of perfumery, an accord is a harmonious blend of two or more aromatic ingredients that, when combined, produce a coherent olfactory impression distinct from any individual component. Building accords is a foundational skill: a well-constructed accord behaves as a single functional "note" within a larger composition.
AmberaccordA warm, resinous accord built from a blend of labdanum, vanilla, benzoin, and musks — evoking warmth, depth, and a sense of sensuousness. Amber is one of the foundational accords in perfumery, used as both a base and a character-defining element.
AmbergrisingredientA rare, waxy substance produced in the digestive system of sperm whales and found floating at sea or washed ashore. Aged ambergris has a complex, marine, animalic, and slightly sweet odour — once a cornerstone fixative in fine perfumery. Natural ambergris is now largely replaced by synthetic ambroxide (Ambroxan) due to scarcity and legal restrictions.
AquaticaccordAn accord that evokes the smell of water, sea air, or clean rain, typically achieved through synthetic molecules such as Calone or dihydromyrcenol. Aquatic fragrances became commercially dominant in the 1990s and remain a pillar of fresh and masculine perfumery.
AromaticaccordAn accord centred on herbal, green, and sometimes medicinal notes — lavender, rosemary, sage, and thyme being the most common contributors. Aromatic accords are strongly associated with classic masculine and fougère fragrances.

B

Base NotetechniqueThe foundation of a fragrance — the least volatile aromatic compounds that emerge after the top and heart notes have dissipated, typically from one hour onward. Base notes provide longevity, depth, and fixative properties, anchoring the entire composition and determining how a fragrance is ultimately remembered.
BenzoiningredientA balsamic resin obtained from the bark of Styrax trees native to Southeast Asia. Benzoin absolute has a warm, sweet, vanilla-like, and slightly smoky character with a powdery softness. It is widely used as a base note and fixative in oriental and amber accords, and is also a key ingredient in traditional incense formulations.
BergamotnoteA citrus fruit (Citrus bergamia) grown primarily in Calabria, Italy, whose cold-pressed rind yields a bright, slightly floral essential oil with characteristic bitter-green facets. Bergamot is the most widely used citrus note in perfumery and the defining ingredient of eau de cologne.
BlendingtechniqueThe central craft practice of perfumery — the process of combining aromatic raw materials to construct accords, modify character, balance volatility, and achieve olfactory coherence. Blending requires both technical knowledge of material interactions and an aesthetic sensibility developed over years of practice.

C

CedarnoteA dry, pencil-shaving woody note most commonly derived from Juniperus virginiana (Virginia cedarwood) or Cedrus atlantica (Atlas cedar). Cedar is one of the most widely used base notes in perfumery, providing clean woody structure without the heaviness of darker woods.
ChypreconceptOne of the foundational fragrance families, defined by the interplay of bergamot (top), labdanum and rose (heart), and oakmoss and vetiver (base). The chypre archetype was established by François Coty's Chypre (1917) and named after the island of Cyprus. IFRA restrictions on oakmoss have made truly classical chypres increasingly rare; contemporary chypres substitute ISO-E Super, woods, and clean musks for the oakmoss anchor.
CitrusaccordA bright, tart accord derived from citrus fruits including bergamot, lemon, grapefruit, mandarin, and yuzu. Citrus accords are among the most volatile in perfumery, functioning primarily as top-note openers rather than lasting structural elements.
CivetingredientA waxy secretion from the perineal glands of the African civet cat, historically used as an animalic fixative in classical perfumery. At high concentration civet is intensely faecal; when diluted it adds warmth, depth, and sensuality. Civet has been replaced in modern formulations by synthetic substitutes due to animal welfare concerns.
CoumariningredientA naturally occurring aromatic compound found in tonka bean, sweet clover, and several other plants, with a warm, sweet, hay-like, slightly almond and vanilla-adjacent odour. Coumarin was among the first synthetic molecules used in perfumery — its inclusion in Houbigant's Fougère Royale (1882) is considered the founding moment of the fougère family.

D

DesignerconceptFragrances produced by or under license for established fashion houses — Chanel, Dior, Guerlain, Giorgio Armani, and similar brands. Designer fragrances typically target a wide audience, are formulated within stricter cost parameters, and are distributed through department stores and duty-free retail globally. The category encompasses both luxury prestige and mass-market tiers.
Dry-DowntechniqueThe final phase of a fragrance's development on skin, after the top and heart notes have fully evaporated, revealing the base notes. The dry-down is typically the longest-lasting stage and the most indicative of a fragrance's true character — many perfumes reveal their most interesting qualities only at this stage.

E

EnfleuragetechniqueOne of the oldest extraction methods in perfumery, in which fragrant flowers are layered onto cold fat (typically lard or tallow) to transfer their aromatic compounds. The saturated fat, called a pomade, is then washed with alcohol to yield an absolute. Enfleurage is largely obsolete commercially due to its labour intensity but remains a reference point in artisan perfumery.
ExtractiontechniqueThe set of methods used to isolate aromatic compounds from plant or animal raw materials. The principal extraction methods include steam distillation (most common), solvent extraction (producing concretes and absolutes), cold pressing (for citrus), supercritical CO₂ extraction (yielding high-fidelity natural materials), and enfleurage.

F

FlankerconceptA fragrance released as a variation of an existing successful product, sharing its name, branding, and often core DNA while introducing modifications in concentration, accord emphasis, or character. Flankers allow brands to extend a franchise without replacing the original — examples include Eau de Parfum and Intense versions of an existing EDT, or seasonal limited editions.
FloralaccordThe largest and most diverse accord family in perfumery, encompassing single-flower soliflores and complex bouquets. Floral accords range from light and dewy (peony, lily of the valley) to rich and narcotic (tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang).
FreshaccordA broad accord describing fragrances that convey cleanliness, lightness, and immediacy — often achieved through a combination of citrus, aquatic, green, and light musk elements. Fresh accords are among the most commercially widespread in contemporary perfumery.

G

GourmandaccordAn accord evoking edible, dessert-like sweetness through ingredients such as vanilla, caramel, chocolate, coffee, and tonka bean. The gourmand family emerged prominently in the 1990s with Angel by Thierry Mugler and has since become a dominant category in modern perfumery.
GreenaccordAn accord that captures the smell of cut grass, crushed leaves, stems, or fresh vegetation. Green accords can range from sharp and herbaceous to soft and dewy, and frequently serve as counterpoints to heavier floral or oriental bases.

H

Headspace TechnologytechniqueAn analytical technique that captures the volatile molecules present in the air surrounding a living flower or natural material without destroying or harvesting it. The resulting chemical profile can be used to reconstruct the scent synthetically, enabling perfumers to recreate smells that cannot be extracted by conventional means.
Heart NotetechniqueAlso called the middle note, the heart is the core of a fragrance — the aromatic layer that emerges as the top notes fade, typically after 20 to 60 minutes on skin. Heart notes form the structural identity of a composition and most often comprise florals, spices, and heavier aromatics.
HedioneingredientA synthetic molecule (methyl dihydrojasmonate) with a light, airy, transparent jasmine-like quality. Hedione is credited with transforming modern perfumery when Edmond Roudnitska used it as a primary component in Eau Sauvage (1966) — its diffusive, radiant quality gave the fragrance an unprecedented freshness that influenced generations of perfumers.

I

IncensenoteA perfumery note evoking the smoke and resin of burned aromatic materials — primarily frankincense (olibanum), myrrh, and benzoin. Incense notes add a spiritual, meditative, or solemn quality to a composition and are central to many Middle Eastern and niche perfumery traditions.
IrisnoteA highly prized perfumery material derived from the dried rhizomes of Iris pallida and related species, most notably from Florence, Italy. Iris possesses a powdery, rooty, violet-like quality with cool, almost metallic facets — and, in the form of orris butter, is one of the most expensive naturals in the industry.
Iso E SuperingredientA synthetic woody-cedar molecule (a mixture of isomers of methyl cedryl ketone) known for its smooth, velvety, slightly smoky cedar character and its unusual skin-chemistry interaction — it amplifies the wearer's natural scent rather than projecting on its own. Used famously at high concentrations in Escentric Molecules Molecule 01.

J

JasminenoteOne of the most important floral materials in perfumery, jasmine — particularly Jasminum grandiflorum from Grasse and Jasminum sambac from India — contributes a rich, indolic, honeyed floral character. Its key aromatic compound, indole, gives jasmine an animalic edge at higher concentrations.

L

LabdanumnoteA sticky resin collected from Cistus ladaniferus, a shrub native to the Mediterranean. Labdanum has a warm, ambery, leathery, and slightly animalic odour and is one of the primary natural ingredients used to construct amber accords. It is a fixture of chypre, oriental, and leather fragrance families.
LeatheraccordAn accord that evokes the dry, animalic, or smoky quality of tanned hide, typically achieved through birch tar, castoreum, isobutyl quinoline, or suede-mimicking synthetics. Leather accords anchor the cuir subfamily and are central to many classic chypre and oriental constructions.
LinaloolingredientA naturally occurring terpene alcohol found in hundreds of plant species including lavender, coriander, rose, and bergamot. Linalool has a light, fresh, floral-woody character and is one of the most commonly used aromatic compounds in perfumery — both as a naturally occurring constituent and as an isolated synthetic material.
LongevityconceptThe duration for which a fragrance remains perceptible on skin after application. Longevity is influenced by concentration (extrait lasts longer than EDT), the composition of base notes, skin type and moisture level, and environmental conditions. It is distinct from sillage — a fragrance can be long-lasting but project only close to the skin.

M

MacerationtechniqueA traditional extraction technique in which plant material is soaked in warm oil or solvent over an extended period to dissolve and capture aromatic compounds. In modern perfumery, maceration also refers to the period during which a finished fragrance concentrate rests in alcohol before filtration and bottling — a step that allows ingredients to harmonise and fully develop.
MusknoteOriginally derived from the secretion of the male musk deer, natural musk has been replaced almost entirely by synthetic musk molecules due to animal welfare and regulatory concerns. Modern musks encompass a wide range of characters — from clean and laundry-fresh (white musks) to animalic, dark, and skin-like.
MuskyaccordAn accord built on musk materials — both natural (ambrette seed, ambergris) and synthetic (Galaxolide, Habanolide) — that imparts warmth, skin-closeness, and sensuality. Musky accords are ubiquitous as base layers, contributing longevity and a sense of intimacy to a fragrance.

N

NicheconceptA segment of the fragrance market characterised by smaller production volumes, higher price points, greater creative freedom, and distribution through selective or specialist retail channels rather than mass-market department stores. Niche houses such as Serge Lutens, Comme des Garçons, and Byredo prioritise artistic expression over commercial accessibility, though the boundary between niche and prestige designer has blurred significantly.

O

OakmossingredientA lichen (Evernia prunastri) harvested primarily in southern Europe, whose absolute provides the defining earthy, forest-floor, animalic character of the chypre family. Oakmoss is heavily restricted by IFRA regulations due to its allergen content (atranol and chloroatranol), forcing reformulations of many classic chypre fragrances.
Olfactory FamilyconceptA classification system that groups fragrances by their dominant character or structural composition. The major families recognised by the industry include floral, oriental, woody, fresh, fougère, chypre, and leather — though various organisations (the Fragrance Foundation, Michael Edwards' Fragrance Wheel) use different taxonomies. Olfactory families provide a navigational framework for understanding and communicating fragrance.
Orris ButteringredientA highly prized concrete obtained from the dried, aged rhizomes of Iris pallida and Iris germanica. Orris butter has a pale yellow, waxy form and an intensely powdery, violet-like, rooty aroma underpinned by irones — its characteristic odourants. It is among the most expensive natural ingredients in perfumery, requiring three to five years of rhizome maturation before processing.
OudnoteA resinous, intensely aromatic wood formed when Aquilaria trees become infected with a specific mould, triggering the production of a dark, complex resin. Also known as agarwood or aloeswood, oud is among the most expensive perfumery materials in the world and is central to Middle Eastern fragrance traditions.

P

PatchoulinoteAn essential oil steam-distilled from the dried leaves of Pogostemon cablin, a plant native to Southeast Asia. Patchouli has a dark, earthy, camphoraceous, and slightly sweet aroma that deepens with age — it is a cornerstone ingredient in oriental, chypre, and woody fragrance families.
PowderyaccordAn accord evoking the soft, dry quality of cosmetic powder, face powder, or talcum — often achieved through iris, heliotrope, violet, and certain musks. Powdery accords add a retro, refined, or nostalgic character to a composition.
ProjectionconceptThe radius at which a fragrance is detectable by others — how far from the wearer the scent radiates. Projection is closely related to sillage but refers more specifically to the immediate aura around the wearer rather than the lingering trail they leave behind. Heavy base notes and high concentrations of certain musks tend to project close to the skin.

R

ResinousaccordAn accord derived from natural gums and tree resins — labdanum, frankincense, myrrh, benzoin, and elemi — that provides depth, opacity, and longevity. Resinous accords are foundational to oriental and incense-forward fragrance families.
RosenoteThe most prominent floral note in perfumery, sourced primarily from Rosa damascena (Bulgarian and Turkish rose absolute) and Rosa centifolia (May rose from Grasse). Rose ranges in character from fresh and dewy to rich, honeyed, and spicy depending on origin, extraction method, and dilution.

S

SaffronnoteDerived from the stigmas of Crocus sativus, saffron absolute has a warm, spicy, leathery, and slightly metallic character in perfumery that differs from its culinary profile. It is particularly prominent in Middle Eastern oud-based fragrances and has become a signature note of contemporary niche perfumery.
SandalwoodnoteA creamy, milky, warm wood derived from the heartwood and roots of Santalum album (Mysore sandalwood) and related species. True Mysore sandalwood is endangered and strictly regulated; most modern perfumery uses Australian sandalwood or synthetic santalols such as Javanol and Santaliff.
Scent PyramidconceptA structural model used to describe the three temporal stages of a fragrance's development: top notes (initial impression), heart notes (core character), and base notes (foundation and longevity). While widely used in fragrance communication, the pyramid is a simplification — in practice, notes interact and evolve continuously rather than in discrete sequential phases.
SillageconceptFrom the French word for a ship's wake, sillage describes the trail or projection that a fragrance leaves in the air as its wearer moves. A high-sillage fragrance announces its presence at a distance and persists after the wearer has left the room; a skin-scent sillage requires close proximity to detect.
SmokyaccordAn accord that evokes burned wood, incense smoke, tar, or smouldering embers, achieved through materials such as birch tar, guaiacwood, vetiver, and certain synthetic molecules. Smoky accords add drama and intensity, and frequently intersect with leathery and woody families.
SolifloreconceptA fragrance designed to capture and present a single flower as its primary olfactory subject — rose, jasmine, lily, or tuberose, for example. Soliflores typically employ a range of supporting materials to enhance the impression of the central note, since the goal is verisimilitude rather than botanical accuracy.
SpicyaccordAn accord drawing on culinary and exotic spices — black pepper, cardamom, clove, cinnamon, cumin, and pink pepper among them — to introduce warmth, bite, or vibrancy. Spicy accords can be dry and peppery, sweet and gourmand-adjacent, or deeply animalic depending on the material.
Synthetic MuskingredientA broad category of laboratory-created molecules that replicate or evoke the warm, sensual, skin-like quality of natural musk without animal-derived materials. Major classes include nitro musks (now largely phased out due to toxicity concerns), polycyclic musks, and macrocyclic musks — each with different olfactory profiles ranging from clean and laundry-like to dark and animalic.

T

Tonka BeannoteThe seed of Dipteryx odorata, native to South America, which contains high concentrations of coumarin — giving it a warm, sweet, almond-like, hay-like aroma. Tonka bean is a versatile base note that bridges gourmand, oriental, and woody compositions.
Top NotetechniqueThe first impression of a fragrance — the most volatile aromatic compounds that are perceived immediately upon application and typically evaporate within 15 to 30 minutes. Top notes are commonly composed of citrus, light herbs, and green materials, and serve primarily as an introduction to the deeper composition.

V

VanillanoteDerived from the cured pods of Vanilla planifolia and related species, vanilla absolute contributes a warm, sweet, balsamic, and slightly smoky character. In perfumery, vanillin (its primary aromatic compound) is commonly used synthetically, and vanilla is one of the most universally appealing base notes.
VetivernoteAn essential oil distilled from the roots of Chrysopogon zizanioides, a grass cultivated primarily in Haiti, Réunion, and Java. Vetiver is characteristically smoky, earthy, and woody with distinct terroir variation depending on origin — Haitian vetiver is famously dark and rooty, while Java vetiver reads cleaner and grassier.

W

WoodyaccordThe broadest accord family in contemporary perfumery, encompassing dry woods (vetiver, cedar), creamy woods (sandalwood), smoky woods (guaiacwood), and synthetic woody materials such as Iso E Super and Ambroxan. Woody accords provide structure and longevity and are used across virtually every fragrance category.

ACCORDIST.